Thursday, October 31, 2019
ECOSYSTEM TOXIC THREAT RISK ASSESSMENT Essay Example | Topics and Well Written Essays - 1250 words
ECOSYSTEM TOXIC THREAT RISK ASSESSMENT - Essay Example Transport can be the moving of people from one place to the next or the movement of goods and other items such as raw materials from their sources to the manufacturing site. According to the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA), vehicle exhaust fumes have been confirmed to contain carcinogens; a statement that is further confirmed by the World health Organization (WHO) which said that the fumes expelled by diesel vehicles contain a harmful amount of carcinogens that may harm people who take them in through breathing. The National Institute of Health (NIH) and the Centers for Disease Control (CDC) back up this information by confirmation of the information stated above (Thakur and Haru 64). From the website Answers.com, the toll of exhaust fumes to the environment is high since they affect a wide range of the components of the environment from human beings, animals and the environment in general. With components such as lead and sulfur emissions, there are many detrimental effects of exhaust fumes to the environment (Monosson 44). From the class notes and the course being undertaken, it has been proven that vehicle exhaust emissions form a large part of the green house gases that are responsible for the increase in the temperature of the earth in what is called global warming. While there is information from many sources against the high amounts of vehicle exhaust gases and fumes and their contribution to global warming in general, the website eHow.com has an argument that depicts vehicle fumes as only having little effect on the environment compared to the other sources of pollution like industries. The author of this article argues that it is not right to put blame on vehicle exhaust fumes as the main cause of global warming when it is this area that had had the most improvement in terms of eliminating the negative impacts to the environment (Barrow 71). It is thus a great topic to choose upon given that is has a lot of information and topics for discussion. Section Two: Vulnerability of the Environment to Vehicle Fumes The impact of vehicle exhaust fumes is majorly chronic in its impact on the environment. Since the impact of many polluting elements is chronic to the environment, those of exhaust fumes follow the same path and have the same impact. This is due to the reason that it takes some time for the chemical elements in the fumes, which are mostly little in amount, to accumulate to harmful levels and thus affect the environment (Jones 86). The threat from vehicle exhaust fumes is also systemic (ecosystem) in nature given the fact that it affects the environment as a whole. The elements released by vehicles and the gases that accompany them add up to cause not only diseases in animals and human beings but also cause global warming that affects the whole ecosystem (Gupta 45). No specific species is targeted by the negative effects of these chemicals since they affect all the living species from plants to animals in equal measure. S ection Three: Risk Assessment The risk level from exhaust fumes is very real given that each day; a very large amount of fumes is released by vehicles all over the world. The number of vehicles owned especially by private individuals increases every single day given that more and more people are affording to buy vehicles for their personal use and other purposes. Even with efforts that are
Tuesday, October 29, 2019
General principles Essay Example for Free
General principles Essay 1. Film theory is how we study movies based general principles. It serves as a model for understanding movies and their different meanings. It is looking at film using a particular perspective, much like using different approaches in analyzing literature. Film criticism meanwhile, is focused more on the artistic value and appeal of the movie to the viewing public. It has two forms: reviews for the common viewer and critical essays for scholars. 2. Realist theory explains that our experiences can be emulated in movies by the help of cinematic language and technology, meaning movies as a representation of reality. Formalist theory explains films are more than a representation of reality. The film artists give form to reality 3. Explicit meaning is what the movie presents on the surface. Meaning the movie clearly shows what it is trying to project, viewers instantly get it without much effort. Implicit meaning is the message within the movie that is not obvious. It is the meaning behind the actions of the film. It is the message of the filmmaker that requires more or less critical analysis. 4. Mimesis is the Greek word for the imitative representation of the world in art and literature. It is basically the violence portrayed in films, suggesting that it is part of reality. Katharsis (catharsis) popularized by Aristotle in his Poetics, on the other hand is what Aristotle used to describe tragedy, it produces emotions of pity and fear. 5. Kathrarsis (catharsis) means purgation or purification. Aristotle used this Greek term in his definition of a tragedy in his Poetics, he said that tragedy must have katharsis, meaning tragedies should produce emotions of pity and fear from the audience. Looking for catharsis in movies is beneficial because it can either have a positive or negative effect on the viewers. 6. Ideology does not simply mean an idea. Ideology means a variety of related ideas, how humans see life and culture. In film, ideology is the ideas of individuals, group, class, or culture that reflects their social needs and aspirations. Ideological meaning in movies is the beliefs depicted in it. It is the belief of the filmmakers, the belief of the characters, or the populationââ¬â¢s belief during the movie was made. Feminism, Marxism, and cultural studies are considered ideological theories because they represent ideas that attempt to explain how people and societies function. 7. Auteur theory states that the director is the author of a film. Its application has two forms: the director is judged by looking at all the films he or she has made as a whole, looking at style. The other is a classification of great directors based on a hierarchy of styles. The director must have directed numerous films to be an auteur. The style of the director should be as unique as novelistââ¬â¢s 8. Genre study is the process of understanding some basic ways of how genre functions to develop interesting critiques of genre films. The evolution of major film genres made filmmakers conscious about genre history and conventions, thus the remakes, parodies, sequels, and hybridization that we see today. 9. The study of the phenomenon (or art) known as film and studying film using a certain perspective or approach are involved in the study of film history. 10. Aesthetic approach evaluates movies and directors by looking at how artistic they and their films are. It is sometimes called the masterpiece approach or great man approach. Social approaches evaluate movies on the criteria of how significant they are in relation to the society. Questions when evaluating film are: What is the filmââ¬â¢s significance to the society? What social issues does it present? and if it provides solutions.
Sunday, October 27, 2019
Effects of Back Massage on Chemotherapy-related Fatigue
Effects of Back Massage on Chemotherapy-related Fatigue Shahida Abbasi This paper is aimed to critique on a quantitative research article. ââ¬Å"Effects of back massage on chemotherapy-related fatigue and anxiety: Supportive care and therapeutic touch in cancer nursingâ⬠Written by Karagozoglu and Kahve (2013) as part of my assignment. The Problem The problem is significant to nursing as noted by Karagozoglu and Kahve (2013) that nurses are directly involved to provide care and deal with patients receiving chemotherapy and their experienced side effects. It is also mentioned that problem is significance to nursing, as nursing interventions intend to improve quality of life by reducing the stress level of the patient with cancer. Moreover, the purpose of conducting quasi experimental and cross sectional study research was to determine the effectiveness of back massage, a nursing intervention, on fatigue process which develops due to chemo therapy. Furthermore, on the anxiety level which develops, and has been explained explicitly. In my point of view this study can accomplish its purpose as Burns and Grove (2011) mentioned that effects of independent variables on dependent variable can be determined through quasi experimental studies. In addition, quasi experimental; a quantitative approach study design is best fit to determine the effectiveness of back message. In the article research variables back massage independent variable and fatigue as dependent variable has been explained with literature support, whereas I feel the dependent variable anxiety need more elaboration. The investigators promptly introduced the problem statement at the end of the introduction. In my point of view the answer to the problem provide insight into current issues in nursing practice because there was no study found which determine the effects of back massage in decreasing fatigue and anxiety of chemotherapy patients. In addition, the investigators has stated the assumptions very clearly that ââ¬Å"back massage providing during chemotherapy reduces fatigue and anxietyâ⬠Moreover, limitations are not listed explicitly but reader can infer easily as evident by this statement, small sample size was used therefore, the findings of the study could not be generalized. The limitations of quasi study design are as mentioned in Polit and Beck (2012) noted that in interventional study participants show reluctance to be selected through randomization. Thus these assumptions and limitations are realistic. Review of the Literature The literature reviewed by the researchers is comprehensive, critical, and logical. Moreover, the literature was published during the period 1988- 2013 and most of them were not recent but relevant to the problem. The relationship to the research purpose is evident by the literature review. In addition to that the researchers included 21 recent research studies and of these three studies published in 2013 were also used. The investigators paraphrased the reviewed adequately did not use any quotation. The researchers made a case logically for conducting a new study based on the review Protection of Human Rights This study was designed to minimize risk and maximize benefits to participants. Moreover, the researchers indicated very explicitly that participants gave voluntary, verbal and written informed consent and no evidence of coercion was found. However, it is not evident in study that participants were invited to consent during periods of high stress. There is no evidence in the study that individuals can be identified and linked to study. The researchers very clearly mentioned that approval to conduct the study has been taken from an independent ethics committee of Cumhuriyet University Faculty of Medicine. Theoretical / Conceptual Framework The researchers did not describe any theory or framework to guide their study. Coughlan, Cronin and Ryan (2007) noted that theoretical frameworks tend to be better developed in experimental and quasi-experimental studies. Burn and Grove (2011) noted that a well-developed quantitative study is based on clearly stated framework and quality of frame work needs to be evaluated for practicality. However, in this study the absence of theory or frame work did not detract the researchers from the significance of the research. Hypothesis The investigators formally stated hypotheses. It is appropriate to have the hypothesis in quantitative study as the investigators were interested to test the effectiveness of back massage. Burns and Grove (2011, p.167) stated that this type of researches are required to have hypothesis in order to predict outcome. Moreover, hypotheses are naturally derived from the research problem and transform the problem into predictable results. In this study hypotheses contain two dependent and independent variables. Furthermore, the investigators stated hypotheses clearly and objectively and the prediction is evident. It is very obvious that these predictions are supported by the literature. Sampling The target population carefully described by the researchers i-e patients who at least underwent for chemotherapy. The target population was appropriate according to the study problem and desirability. However, resource limitations are not mentioned in the study. The investigators described sample selection procedures by giving strict eligibility criteria. However, it would be better if they had clearly mentioned the type of sampling procedure used. Moreover, the sampling method fits with the research design and level of inquiry of study. However, the authors did not describe potential sample biases. According to Polit and Beck (2012) under representation of the sample pertaining to research question should be acknowledge by the researchers. The sample is sufficiently large as Polit and Beck (2012, p.285) propose that small sample size will be adequate if researcher is certain about the strong relationship of the independent and dependent variables and it is described under the subhe ading of methods p.212.This study can be generalized on the target population and patients receive chemotherapy. The investigators have described the eligibility criteria to enroll participants on ( p.212) to ensure a representative sample. However, sampling error can be minimized by increasing the sample size. Research Design The investigators used quasi experimental and cross sectional design to determine the effects of the interventions. The design used for the level of inquiry of research question and purpose of research was appropriate as Burn and Grove (2011, P.151) mentioned that this study design is to determine the effects of back massage on independent variables. The researcher did not discussed potential effects of confounding variables and possible measures to control such effects (validity). Polit and Beck (2012) proposes selection of homogeneous sample to control confounder, however, statistical analysis can also be used for the same purpose. The researchers gave enough information based on which study can be replicated. Data Collection The instruments Personal Information Form, The State Anxiety part of Spielberger State- Trait Anxiety Inventry (STAI) Brief Fatigue Inventory (BFI) were used for data collection. Personal Information consists of nine questions for that detail is given under the subheading of Personal Information on p. 212. Moreover, State- Trait Anxiety Inventory (STAI) instruments developed by Spielberger et.al in 1964 has been used by Oner and Le Compte. Cronbachââ¬â¢s alpha coefficient was given that shows validity and reliability. In addition, Brief Fatigue Inventory (BFI) developed by Mendoza et.al. (1999) which consists of 10 questions was used to assess fatigue, and the same scale was used by Cinar, Sezerli,Sarsmaz and Ments. The value of Cronbach alpha reliability coefficient of the scale verifies its validity and reliability. However, rationale for the selection of instruments was not given. Instruments used in this study were congruent with research questions. Are results of these tests sufficient to indicate their use? The instruments are suitable for use with the study sample. Quantitative Analysis Determining the effectiveness of back massage is the third level of inquiry of study question, and for that quasi experimental and cross sectional study design is best fit. The investigators calculated mean and standard deviation for age. Chi-square test has been used for qualitative ordinal variables. A non-parametric Friedman test that is substitute of ANOVA has been used to analyze mean BFI score for intra group variability. Moreover, a Wilcoxon non-parametric test alternative to paired t-test was used to examine mean STAI scores of patients before, after and right after chemotherapy. Furthermore, Mann-Whitney U test was used for mean STAI and BFI score of patients before and right after chemotherapy. Despite the fact that data were normally distributed, non- parametric test have been used. The link between the analysis and findings are logical, clear, and are evident by statistical rejection of null hypothesis by P-value. The researchers did not go beyond the data during interpretation of the findings, and they presented statistical result both in the narration and in tabulated form. The investigators used inferential statistic that is enough eviden ce to establish the correctness of the statistical result as Coughlan Cronin, P., Ryan (2007) noted that statistical significance assist the investigators to rule out threat to validity. The investigator presented findings in a table which is clear, simple, and accurate. Conclusions and Recommendations Data analysis clearly explained in reference to research questions and hypotheses. Since the study sample was small, the researchers made appropriate decision; based on significant findings and did not claim for generalizations beyond the study sample or population. However, the results are applicable on our patients who are planning for chemotherapy. If we will implement this intervention to our context, then it will lead to increase comfort, decrease fatigue, and anxiety. Furthermore, there are no risks of implementing study findings mentioned explicitly or inferred. The authors also recommended that back massage during chemotherapy is effective intervention to be practiced to control the side effects especially fatigue and anxiety and this recommendation is well supported by the others studies. However, the investigators did not give recommendations for future research studies. To determine the efficacy of back massage, a nursing intervention is a unique study which is significance for nursing practice. In this study the investigators used quasi experimental and cross sectional study design. Moreover, the study purpose of the study is explicitly stated. The investigators tested hypothesis with instrument which are reliable and valid and they described the instrument very comprehensively. Moreover, sample selection was carried out on strict eligibility criteria. Study findings have been explained in narration and in table. Finally, investigators gave conclusion based on findings that back massage is effective nursing intervention to decrease the fatigue and anxiety of the patients who receive chemotherapy. The investigators also mentioned that study cannot be generalized other than target population. References Burns, N., Grove, S. K. (2012). Understanding Nursing Research: Building an Evidence-Based Practice. Elsevier Health Sciences. Polit, D. F., Beck, C. T. (2012). Nursing Research: Generating and Assessing Evidence for Nursing Practice. Lippincott Williams Wilkins. Coughlan, M., Cronin, P., Ryan, F. (2007). Step-by-step guide to critiquing research. Part 1: quantitative research.British Journal of Nursing,16(11), 658-663.
Friday, October 25, 2019
Waiting in the Unemployment Line :: descriptive essay, observation essay
I am standing in line for unemployment benefits. There must be between four hundred to six hundred others here with me. Everyone here is a locked out Steelworkers from the Kaiser Mead plant. I see many faces I know in the crowd. We are all here because the Washington State Unemployment office downtown cannot handle such a crowd. All the members were told by the Union that this was the day that we had to signup for a new benefit year. Everyone was told to meet at the Carpenter's hall just off Division on Mission. The building is getting old and could use some maintenance. It is a cold dreary damp morning, and I am glad that I brought my coat along. The weather reflects the overall mood of the people in line. There is a lot of talking going on about what it is going to take to requlify for benefits. I think many fear that they will not receive any more checks from Unemployment. This morning I got up early to make sure I could make it on time. The last time they locked the doors on the hour. This is the only day we have to do this, so I did not want to miss out. Without unemployment benefits, I would go under fast. This is true for most of the people in line. I don't think they thought this many of us would have made the mandatory $2,646. If they had used the same method for sign up that they used last October, this whole process would have been easier on everyone. Previously people with last names starting with A-H went at 9:00am, I-P at 11:00am and so on. This kept it from becoming overcrowded like it is today. After about ten minutes someone comes out of the building yelling, "Go home if you have not made at least $2,800 since the benefit year started". The reason for this is because the state requires us to make six times our weekly benefit amount to be eligible for another benefit year. Of course no one let us know this until the benefits ran out in August. This left most steelworkers only a month and a half to make the money.
Thursday, October 24, 2019
Verizon Stakeholders
Stakeholders Stakeholders are the ones who have a stake in the organization and thus in some way or the other are related to the organization. This broad definition of stakeholders often leads to confusion; hence a more narrow definition was derived that explains ââ¬Å"group who are vital for the organization or groups that help to define the organization, its mission, purpose and goals, and or are most affected by the activities of the organizationâ⬠(Lebeer, 2002, p. 181). Considering the above given definition, the stakeholders of Verizon can be segregated as internal as well as external stakeholders. Everybody who works for the organization can be considered as the internal stakeholder (Banhegyi, 2009, p. 395). The employees of Verizon are the internal stakeholders of the company; however the families of these employees are also considered to be a part of internal shareholders. The external stakeholders are the ones who are not a part of the organization, but have interest in the company (McManus, 2005, p. 147). In Verizon, the customers are considered as one of the most important external stakeholders. Apart from customers, the shareholders and the investors are also of great importance. Other external stakeholders are the government, the public, and the environment. According to stakeholdersââ¬â¢ theory, the stakeholders should be identified and segregated into different groups depending upon the power and interest the exercise on the organization. This segregation is often called power grid. According to it, the stakeholders can be segregated into four different groups, these are: High power-High interest:These stakeholders have active interest in the day to day functioning of the firm, so they should actively participate in managing the organization. Interest coupled with power gives them the authority to take decision and set policies. Example: The management High interest-Low power: These stakeholders are interested in participating in the activities related to the organization but due to lack of power they cannot actively participate in the decision making process. The organization should keep them informed regarding the decision taken. Example: The employees High power-Low interest:The stakeholders who possess the power but are unwilling to participate in different organizational activities belong to this group. The management tries to appease this section of the stakeholders as far as possible. Example: Investors Lower interest-Low power:This set of stakeholder neither have the power to participate in the decision making activities nor do they have the interest to participate in any kind of activity related to the organization. Therefore, the organization should not pay much attention to them but their activities should be monitored on time to time basis. Example: Government, social interest groups, suppliers, etc. Figure 1: Power Grid (Source: Davies, 2007, p. 36)
Wednesday, October 23, 2019
Marketing Mix-4pââ¬â¢s Strategy of Nestlé Pure Life (Npl) Essay
Product Strategy 1. Product Positioning: Product is something that is offered to the market. Nestlà © Pure Life (NPL) product strategy studies show that they are positioning the product with respect to its attributes that NPL is safe, pure, refreshing and healthy water. 2. Product line expansion: Nestlà © also does product line expansion; recently it has offered a 0.25 liter bottle of NPL in the market. Itââ¬â¢s also using the company name with its product name i.e. Nestlà © Pure Life. NPL round shape and elegance of the bottle are instantly recognizable. Quality is cornerstone of NPL success. Nestle people say: ââ¬Å"Quality is our more successful product and it is key to our success today and tomorrow.â⬠Pricing Strategy 1. Non-price competition: In Price strategy, Nestle has adopted the strategy of non-price competition. It is offering one price for NPL to all cities of Pakistan. It also keeps the check on distributors to maintain single price of NPL. It offers trade discounts to its distributors. 2. Cost Based Pricing: The cost of production, which stands at the base of all pricing strategy, is well reflected in Nestle Pure Life price. Its rather higher price relative to other bottled waters can be explained using the Pricing Strategies Matrix. Since the quality of Nestle Pure Life is very high both from the Companyââ¬â¢s and the consumersââ¬â¢ perspective, the high price justifies itself. Place of Distribution Strategy 1. Intensive distribution strategy: Placement is the distribution of the product to its customers at right time, in right quantity, at right price and at right place. To ensure this, channel adopted by the Nestlà © for distribution of NPL is as follows: Producer Wholesaler Retailer Consumer NPL comes under the category of Fast Moving Consumer Goods (FMCG), so for this the timely supply is very important thatââ¬â¢s why Nestlà © is following intensive distribution strategy. Promotion Strategies 1. Sponsorship: The Company is actively involved in sponsorship of educational and sports activities. In particular, the company sponsors Youth Pakhtakor, a young football team, and the friendly meetings or competitions of that team. Furthermore, outdoor posters and banners, references in movies and articles have made tens of thousands of people subconsciously aware of Nestle Pure Life (and other Nestle products). 2. Public relations: For establishing public relations, Nestlà © distributes its newsletters, annual reports, calendars and diaries, lobbying, donation for charitable and civic events. For the victims of 8th October 2005 earthquake, Nestlà © has donated 90 trucks, which were containing different foods items, and NPL was one of them which are around Rs. 2 Billion. The Nestle organized its teams to distribute products to the affected areas and all employees contributed from top to bottom.
Tuesday, October 22, 2019
The History of How Shoes Are Made
The History of How Shoes Are Made In most early civilizations, sandals were the most common footwear, however, a few early cultures had more substantial shoes. But shoes in ancient- and even not so ancient- civilizations had some major design differences than their modern-day counterparts. In fact, as late as the 1850s, most shoes were constructed on absolutely straight lasts (foot-shaped forms on which shoes were constructed and repaired), which meant that the right and the left shoes were pretty much the same. On the upside, that would make them interchangeable. On the downside, they were likely a lot less comfortable. Shoes in the BC In Mesopotamia, circa 1600 to 1200 BC, mountain people living on the border of Iran wore a type of soft shoes made of wraparound leather that was similar to a moccasin. Egyptians began making shoes from woven reeds as early as 1550 BC. Worn as overshoes, they were boat-shaped and had straps constructed of long, thin reeds covered by wider strips of the same material. Shoes in this style were still being made as late as the 19th century. Meanwhile, in China, shoes made from layers of hemp, circa the final century BC, were made in a process similar to quilting and featured decorative as well as functional stitching. Circa 43-450 AD Roman sandals are believed to be the first footwear specifically designed to fit the foot. Constructed with cork soles and leather straps or lacing, sandals were the same for men and women. Some military sandals known as caligae used hobnails to reinforce the soles. The imprints and patterns they left behind could be read as messages. Circa 937 AD Foot binding was a practice introduced in the Tang Dynasty (618-907 AD) that became increasingly popular in China during the Song dynasty (960-1279 AD). Starting at age 5 to 8, the bones in girls feet were broken and then tightly wrapped to prevent growth. The ideal for womens feet was modeled after the lotus blossom and was decreed to be no more than three to four inches in length. Girls with tiny, highly arched feet were prized as prime marriage material- but the crippling practice left many of them barely able to walk. These tiny feet were adorned with dainty shoes constructed of silk or cotton and richly embroidered. Chinese women of the upper classes were often buried with many pairs of such shoes. While several bans were imposed on the practice (the first by Emperor Chun Chi of the Manchu dynasty in 1645 and the second by Emperor Kââ¬â¢ang Hsi in 1662), foot-binding remained a common practice in China into the early 20th century. 12th Century Pointy-tipped Poulianes (ââ¬Å"shoesà in the Polish fashionâ⬠) became popular in the middle ages and continued to come and go until the early 15th century. Circa 1350 to 1450 Pattens were overshoes worn to protect them from the elements and filthy street conditions. They were similar in function to more modern galoshes, except that pattens were made in the same shape as the shoes they were fitted over. 1450 to 1550 During the Renaissance, shoe fashions evolved from vertical lines favored by Gothic styles to become more horizontal. Nowhere was this more evident than in the toe shape. The richer and more powerful the wearer, the more extreme and broad the squared toe became. However, while squared toed shoes were prevalent, during this time, round-toed shoes began to emerge. Round-toed shoes were considered a more practical choice for children, however, even some adult shoes of the Tudor period featured the round profile. 17th Century During the mid-17th century, shoe fashions for men were mostly square-toed, however, it was at this time that the fork toe design debuted. Chopines, backless shoes or slippers featuring high platform soles, became popular throughout Renaissance Europe thanks to a revival in ancient Greek culture. The most notable examples from the period come from Spain (where the platforms were sometimes constructed from cork) and Italy. Men, as well as women, wore slip-on indoor slides known as mules, which were available in a variety of materials and colors and featured a slightly flared heel. In 1660, with the restoration of Charles II to the throne of France, fashions from the French courts grew in popularity across the Channel. Red heels, a style allegedly created for Charles himself, came into vogue and remained there well into the next century. 18th Century In the 18th century, shoes for upper-class women, such as salon mules, initially took shape as boudoir fashion but evolved into day and even dancewear. The erotically charged footwear was favored by Madame de Pompadour, mistress of Louis XV of France, who was in huge part responsible for the trend. Unfortunately, elegant shoes of the day were constructed of materials such as silk that rendered them inappropriate for outdoor use and as a result, pattensà (also known as clogs) made a big comeback, especially in big cities, such as London, that had yet to deal with the unsanitary conditions of its streets. Fast Facts: Shoe Laces Prior to shoestrings, shoes were commonly fastened with buckles.Modern shoestrings, which employed strings laced through shoe holes and then tied, were invented in England in 1790 (first recorded date, March 27).An aglet (from the Latin word for needle) is a small plastic or fiber tube used to bind the end of a shoelace, or similar cord, to prevent fraying and to allow the lace to be passed through an eyelet or another opening. In the 1780s, a fascination with all things ââ¬Å"Orientalâ⬠led to the introduction of shoes with upturned toes known as Kampskatcha slippers. (While billed as an homage to Chinese fashion, they more closely resembled Juttis, the upturned slippers worn by affluent female members of the court of the Mughal Empire.) From the 1780s through the 1790s, the height of heels gradually decreased. With the approach of the French Revolution (1787-99), excess was seen with increasing disdain, and less became more. 19th Century Styles In 1817, the Duke of Wellington commissioned the boots that would become synonymous with his name. Streamlined and free of ornamentation, ââ¬Å"Welliesâ⬠became all the rage. The rubberized version, still popular today, was introduced in the 1850s by the North British Rubber Company. In the following decade, the family shoemaking firm of C J Clark Ltd was founded and remains one of Englands leading shoe manufacturers. Prior to 1830, there was no difference between right and left shoes. French shoemakers came up with the idea of placing little labels on the insoles of shoes: ââ¬Å"Gaucheâ⬠for the left, and ââ¬Å"Droitâ⬠for the right. While the shoes were still both straight in shape, since the French style was considered the height of fashion, other countries were quick to emulate the trend. In 1837 by J. Sparkes Hall patented the elastic side boot, which allowed them to be put on and taken off much more easily than those that required buttons or laces. Hall actually presented a pair of them to Queen Victoria, and the style remained popular through the end of the 1850s. By the 1860s, flat, squared-toed shoes featuring side lacing were de rigeur. This left the front of the shoes free for decoration. Rosettes were a popular embellishment of the day for womenââ¬â¢s shoes. In the mid- to late-1800s unassembled shoes made with flat sheets of woven straw were produced in Italy and sold across Europe and in America to be put together as shoemakers saw fit. In the mid-1870s, the Manchu people of China (who did not practice foot binding) favored platform shoes that were the precursors to 20th-century fashion styles. Hoof-shaped pedestals afforded increased balance. Womenââ¬â¢s shoes were taller and more intricately decorated than those for men. 19th Century Innovations in Shoe Manufacturing 1830s: Plimsolls, canvas-topped shoes with rubber soles, first manufactured by the Liverpool Rubber Company, make their debut as beachwear.June 15, 1844: Inventor and manufacturing engineer Charles Goodyear receives a patent for vulcanized rubber, a chemical process that uses heat to meld rubber to fabric or other components for a sturdier, more permanent bond.1858: Lyman Reed Blake, an American inventor receives a patent for the specialized sewing machine he developed that stitches the soles of shoes to the uppers.January 24, 1871: Charles Goodyear Jrs patents the Goodyear Welt, a machine for sewing boots and shoes.1883: Jan Ernst Matzeliger patents an automatic method for lasting shoes that paves the way for the mass production of affordable shoes.January 24, 1899: Irish-American Humphrey OSullivan patents the first rubber heel for shoes. Later, Elijah McCoy (best known for developing a lubricating system for railroad steam engines that did not require trains to stop) invents an im proved rubber heel. Keds, Converse, and the Evolution of Sneakers In 1892, nine small rubber manufacturing companies consolidated to form the U.S. Rubber Company. Among them was the Goodyear Metallic Rubber Shoe Company, organized in the 1840s in Naugatuck, Connecticut, the first licensee of Charles Goodyears vulcanization process. While Plimsolls had been on the scene for nearly six decades, vulcanization was a game-changer for rubber-soled canvas shoes. From 1892 to 1913, the rubber footwear divisions of U.S. Rubber were manufacturing their products under 30 different brand names but the company decided to consolidate their brands under a single name. The initial favorite was Peds, from the Latin for foot, but another company already owned that trademark. By 1916, the choice had come down to two final alternatives: ââ¬â¹Vedsà or Keds. The k sound won out and Keds were born. The same year, Keds introduced their Champion Sneaker for Women. Keds were first mass-marketed as canvas-top sneakers in 1917. Henry Nelson McKinney, a copywriter who worked for the N. W. Ayer Son Advertising Agency, coined the word sneaker to connote the quiet, stealthy nature of rubber-soled shoes. Other shoes, with the exception of moccasins, were noisy while sneakers were practically silent. (The Keds brand was acquired by the Stride Rite Corporation in 1979, which was in turn purchased by Wolverine World Wide in 2012). 1917 was a banner year for basketball shoes. Converse All Stars, the first shoe specifically designed for the game, were introduced. Soon after, Chuck Taylor, an iconic player of the day, became the brand ambassador. The design has remained pretty much the same over the years, and remain firmly ensconced in the cultural landscape today.à Early 20th Century Styles As at the close of the 19th century, low-heeled shoes began to fall increasingly out of favor and as the new century dawned, higher heels made a huge resurgence. However, not everyone was willing to suffer for fashion. In 1906, Chicago-based podiatrist William Mathiasà Schollà launched his eponymous brand of corrective footwear, Dr. Schollââ¬â¢s. By the 1910s, morality and fashion were increasingly at odds. Nice girls were expected to play by a stringent set of rules, including those instituted with regard to the heel height of womenââ¬â¢s shoes. Anything over three inches was considered ââ¬Å"indecent.â⬠Spectator shoes, the two-toned Oxfords commonly worn by British patrons of sporting events gained huge popularity among the well to do in England at the close of WWI. In America, however, spectators became part of the counterculture instead. By the ââ¬â¢40s, spectators often accompanied Zoot suits, the over-the-top outfits sported by African American and Hispanic men in defiance of the fashion status quo. One of the most innovative shoe designers of the 20th century, Salvatore Ferragamo, rose to fame in the 1930s. In addition to experimenting with unusual materials including kangaroo, crocodile, and fish skin, Ferragamo drew on historic inspiration for his shoes. His cork wedge sandals- often imitated and reimagined- are considered one of the most important shoe designs of the 20th century. Meanwhile, in Norway, a designer named Nils Gregoriusson Tveranger was looking to create a shoe that was truly comfortable and fashionable. His unisex innovation, a slip-on shoe called the Aurland moccasin was inspired by Native American moccasins and slip-ons favored by Norwegian fishermen. The shoes took off, both in Europe and in America. Not long after, the Spaulding family based in New Hampshire launched a similar shoe called The Loafer, which would eventually become the generic term for this slip-on style. In 1934, G. H. Bass debuted his Weejuns (a play on the word ââ¬Å"Norwegianâ⬠as a nod to the homeland of the original designer). Weejuns had a distinctive strip of leather across the saddle featuring a cutout design. Kids who wore them started putting pennies or dimes into the slot, and the shoes became known as- you guessed it- Penny Loafers. The boat (or deck) shoe was invented by American boater Paul Sperry in 1935. After watching how his dog was able to maintain stability on ice, Sperry was inspired to cut grooves into the soles of his shoes and a brand was born. Post World War II the Latter Half of the 20th Century WWII was the crucible for a number of shoe trends. Doc Martens, combining comfortable air-cushioned soles with durable uppers were invented by Dr. Klaus Maertens in 1947. In 1949, Brothel creepers, the brainchild of British shoemaker George Cox, transformed the sole of an army boot into a thick exaggerated wedge made their debut. Loafers had long been considered a shoe of the hoi polloi in America but when the style was reinvented in 1953 by the House of Gucci, it became the shoe of choice for formal occasions for affluent fashion enthusiasts of both genders and remained so through the 1980s. Stiletto heels (whose name was a nod to a Sicilian fighting blade) became increasingly popular in the 1950s as the curvy female hourglass figure came back into vogue. Designer Roger Vivier of the House Dior is credited as having the most influence on shoes of this style from the period. While theyââ¬â¢ve existed for more than 6,000 years in some form or other, the Y-shaped rubber sandals known as flip-flops became pretty much ubiquitous in the 1960s. The Birkenstock family have been making shoes since 1774, however, it wasnââ¬â¢t until 1964 when Karl Birkenstock transformed the arch support inserts for his shoes into soles for sandals that the company became a household name. During the 1970s disco craze, platform shoes became hot, hot, hot. Taking a leaf from Salvatore Ferragamoââ¬â¢s designs from four decades earlier, men and women hit the dance floor in outrageously high shoes.à One of the most popular brands of the era was Candieââ¬â¢s, a clothing brand that launched in 1978. Ugg boots debut in 1978. Uggs were originally made of sheepskin and worn by Australian surfers to warm up their feet after being in the water. In 1978, after Brian Smith imported Uggs to California under the label UGG Australia, the brand took off and has remained a fashion staple ever since but knockoffs in a variety of synthetic and cheaper materials have flooded the market. With the 1980s came a fitness craze that changed the shape of footwear. Designers such as Reebok increasingly took branding and specialization to heart in hopes of raising both profile and profits. The most successful athletic brand to cash in on this trend is Nikeââ¬â¢s Air Jordan, which encompasses basketball shoes and athletic and casual style clothing. The brand was created for five-time NBA MVP Michael Jordan.à Designed for Nike by Peter Moore,à Tinker Hatfield, and Bruce Kilgore, the original Air Jordan sneakers were produced in 1984 and were solely for Jordanââ¬â¢s use, but were released to the public later that year. The brand continues to thrive in the 2000s. Vintage Air Jordans, especially those with some special personal connection to Michael Jordan, have sold for exorbitant prices (the highest recorded as of 2018 was in excess of $100,000). Sources ââ¬Å"Timeline: A History of Shoesâ⬠. Victoria Albert Museumââ¬Å"History of the Penny Loaferâ⬠. Trickerââ¬â¢s EnglandAcedera, Shane. ââ¬Å"The Most Expensive Air Jordansâ⬠. SportOne. May 18, 2018Cartwright, Mark. ââ¬Å"Foot Bindingâ⬠. Ancient History Encyclopedia. September 27, 2017
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